A loft-like ambiance, with rows of neatly polished and arranged clogs hanging from the rafters. It’s kitsch but completely self-assured, and will appeal to nostalgics. One you’ve slid onto the one of the large scratched leather banquettes, you can focus your attention on the short menu (set formulas at €25 and €35). A lot of it comes from the Auvergne, but not all, aiming to satisfy the trendier local clientele.
The starter portions are big enough to floor a champion racehorse, with coddled eggs filled with blue Auvergne cheese, a charcuterie board big enough to share, house foie gras and beautifully seasoned herring with fried potatoes. For main dishes it’s the same story; braised beef cheek and a tartlet rich in Saint-Nectaire cheese, veal escalope and grilled sardines. Come here with bold, hungry friends, and come back for the traditional Auvergne tripou (veal tripe and stomach) if nothing else – though the wine bar and charcuterie to go are both also pretty tempting.
This restaurant serves one of Time Out's 50 best dishes in Paris. Click here to see the full list.