La Gazzetta

  • Restaurants
  • French
Critics' choice
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Bastille

Pale green walls hung with mirrors, dark wooden furniture and red leather, and an imposing bar in black wood and marble: La Gazzetta’s décor hauls you right back to the 1930s, just without the cigarette smoke. The Swedish chef Petter Nilsson has updated the traditional bistro concept as well, offering a daily-changing menu of simple dishes cooked with quality ingredients, free of much of the butter and cream that characterises so much old school French cookery. Which isn’t to say that it lacks flavour – we’ve never eaten a more flavour-filled broccoli dish (and we never thought we’d say that).

The set menu brings an amuse-bouche, then a choice between three starters and three mains, usually a fish, a meat and a vegetarian – on our visit, Mont-Saint-Michel milk-fed lamb with chard and rhubarb, line-caught tuna with celery, or a dish of buttered beetroot and redcurrants. The meat is perfectly cooked, and the flavour combinations, though often surprising, work. The dishes boast lots of vegetables and little fat, meaning that you don’t feel weighed down by your meal, rare for such a high-end bistro.

In the evenings, with the selection of three desserts, it will cost you €39 (or €45 if you give in to the cheese plate as well) – more than reasonable for cooking of this quality. If you want to leave things up the kitchen and you don’t mind the expense, go for the ‘carte blanche’ menu with six dishes for €65 (when ordered by the whole table before 10pm).

Inside, the oval tables set near the windows are ideal for couples; or on sunny days you can sit outside on the charming cobbled street a few moments from the Marché d’Aligre. Among the superfluity of ‘néo-bistrots’ that open in Paris every year, La Gazzetta is a deservedly popular choice.

Venue name: La Gazzetta
Contact:
Address: 29 rue de Cotte
12e
Paris

Opening hours: Tue-Sat 12noon-2pm, 7.30pm-11pm
Transport: Métro : Ledru-Rollin
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