Critics' choice
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© Emmanuel Chirache
5th arrondissement
Chef Franck Marchesi-Grandi, formerly at Pierre Gagnaire’s Goya, gave this ex-pizzaria a makeover, creating a contemporary setting around an open kitchen. With the calm and dexterity of an artist, he prepares dishes like saffron-tinted langoustine soup, risotto enriched with ladles of cream, and filet of cod in a tangy tomato sauce. Its hard enough choosing the starters and mains, but when the dessert and cheese menu is thrust into your hands, an internal battle begins: Will it be chocolate 'ganache' rolled in cacao powder and served in a mint soup, or oozy gorgonzola served on a bed of rocket with pears and hazelnuts? Either way, you won't be disappointed. If you're on a budget, don't miss the excellent value lunch menu.
Venue name: L'Agrume
Address: 15 rue des Fossés Saint-Marcel

Opening hours: Tue-Sat noon-2.30pm, 7.30-10.30pm
Transport: Métro: Les Gobelins / Saint-Marcel / Censier-Daubenton
Price: Mains 18-25€; lunch menu 19€-24€; dinner menu 39€
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