Chic without being bobo, refined without being gastro – Bertrand Auboyneau, already heading up two other well-respected bistros in the 11th (the Bistro Paul Bert and l’Ecailler du Bistrot), opened Le 6 Paul Bert, his third venue, at the end of 2012.
It's a restaurant that wants to be different to its elders, offering a more refined, lighter style of cooking. Two charming, efficient young servers welcome you into the light-filled room dominated by an enormous zinc bar, surrounded by formica tables and studded with original lamps made of forks and bottles of wine. Everything is set up to make you hungry; in the entrance there’s a big bar/deli that tempts you with beautiful cheeses and all sorts of charcuterie. Before you reach the restaurant, you pass by the open kitchen with all its delicious scents.
The menu revisits bistro jazz standards (tartare, herring, seasonal vegetables), but they are modernised and adapted according to the produce available in the market and the whims of the chef. All this means a lot less cream and butter, with flavours coming to the fore. Thus in the (slightly small) dishes you find things like a surf and turf version of tartare, with a veal base, cockles and sharp herbs. Then there might be roasted scallops with parsley and lemon, or a little quail with beetroot puree and a bouquet of pickled carrots. To avoid missing out, go for the tasting menu and share small versions of myriad dishes.
In the best bistro tradition, a short but well-chosen wine loist offers bottles from all over France (even from the often-forgotten South West and Provence) at less than €40. For dessert, we’d recommend the lemon cannelloni with fromage blanc ice cream or the chocolate farandole.
Reservation strongly advised.