Le Bougainville

In the extremely chic Galerie Vivienne, it’s surprising to find a bistro that has stayed apparently unchanged since the 1950s, with Formica tables and bar, brick red faux leather banquettes and old-school parquet flooring. The new owners have left the décor practically untouched, though the dining room looks a little tidier than it used to.

On the menu, there are still classic bistro dishes such as l’oeuf mayo (with house mayonnaise, a small potato salad and a few salad leaves), fine slices of beef skirt with great fries, a perfectly-cooked duck confit with mashed vegetables or a bang-on chocolate mousse. The cheeses are also a speciality: try the 18 month old laguiole or the Fourme de Montbrison.

Even the prices are of another era, with a set menu of starter/main or main/dessert at just €16.50. No need to reserve, as generally the big dining room never gets completely full.