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Indian food in Paris might not have the long tradition it does in London, but it’s gaining ground at restaurants such as Le Sari in the 19th, close to the Cité des Sciences et de l'Industrie. Here, an informal post-work, pre-party crowd (last orders 10.30pm) enjoys traditional dishes with sophisticated spicing that elevates an all-purpose curry menu to Indian haute cuisine. There are the usual suspects, baltis, tikkas and madras, but foodies opt for the surprises of tandoori crab, bangan burtha (aubergine caviar) or fish Bengali - delicate flakey cod with ginger, coriander and tomato. Pride of place on Le Sari’s wine list is Indian wine from the Grover vineyard, outside Bangalore – a groundbreaking winery whose first vintage, mixing French grapes with Indian terroir, launched in 1992.