Little Hanoï

A clean and simple modern restaurant with an open kitchen, Little Hanoï (or its big brother, Paris-Hanoï at 74 rue de Charonne) is a breath of fresh air. Delicately scented dishes arrive on your table still steaming, fresh out of the oven and free from MSG – huge salads, bo bun, pho, beef with onions and much more. There are some nice touches, like the mint leaves in the water carafe, and the excellent egg rolls and deep-fried prawns that can be ordered by the piece (€1 and €0.90), and dishes costs around €10, with rice and vegetables included.

There is a price, however: patience. You can’t reserve, so you’ll have to queue (which goes easier with a Beerlao in hand). Use the time to admire the poise of the staff, who manage to maintain their good humour in the face of the hungry crowds.