Pascade

A pascade is a variation on the crêpe from the Rouergue region, with crisp raised edges and a soft centre. It has been out of fashion in Paris for years but is now making a comeback under the auspices of chef Alexandre Bourdas (whose cooking at SaQuaNa in Honfleur earned him two Michelin stars), paying homage to his Averyon roots. His new Paris restaurant has the feel of a chic and innovative crêperie, where sweet and savoury pascades come garnished with seasonal products in brilliant combinations.

It's a talented chef who, rather than duplicating his previous success, reinvents his cooking all over again on arrival in Paris. Even if the concept is sometimes pushed a bit far (cod and coconut milk is too much with the sugar in the pascade dough), mostly it succeeds brilliantly, as in a lightly sweetened pascade with leg of lamb, pak choi and gentle notes of cardamom and grapefruit, or a traditional version (also served at SaQuaNa) with truffle oil, lemon cream and grilled chestnuts – subtle, delicate and autumnal.

The ambiance at lunchtime is noisy and boisterous, with enthusiastic crowds squeezed around the communal table that has pride of place in the middle of the restaurant. This could be fun, but you'd do better to reserve one of the calmer tables next to it. If not, the quality of the cooking, the handsome décor of raw materials and the charming service provide ample distraction from the noise. Just remember that with pascades between €10 and €20, wines by the glass at not less than €6, and coffee at €4, you're not in a neighbourhood crêperie but just off the place Vendôme, with prices to match.