Square Gardette (CLOSED)

Square Gardette is the little garden of this calm residential area, not far from the tumult of the Rue Oberkampf. This is where you’ll find, rarely by accident, the restaurant of the same name, a spacious place that manages to be chic and welcoming at the same time. The décor is a little eccentric, with stuffed animals overlooking your table, and the ‘cabinet of curiosity’ loos are bigger than some Parisian apartments. The service isn’t snooty, but on the contrary, the helpful smiling staff take pleasure in helping you through the daily-changing menu – though the €36 set menu is compulsory in the evenings. But it’s a very reasonable sum for a unique three course menu. A starter of foie gras served in a flavourful emulsion is streets ahead of that found in any traditional brasserie, and the saddle of rabbit with crunchy giblets is a delight. Big appetites can go for the entrecote for two (an extra €10 per person), delivered in its own stewpot surrounded by golden oven-roast potatoes. There are secret recipes from the Japanese pastry chef for dessert, and it’s often one of the owners, an expat Brazilian, who will advise your wine choices, with a nose as fine as the taste of his chef, Aimeric Lahondès. There are also well-priced plats du jour at lunchtime, and a €30 brunch on Sundays.