Stella Maris

Tateru Yoshino has divided his life between Paris and Tokyo for many years. Trained by Robuchon and Troisgros, he turns out food that is resolutely French. The service is at times faltering, but charmingly so, and the space is beautiful. You might float your way through foie gras with carrots, truffles and pistachio oil, pan-fried sea bass with saffron risotto, and a perfectly lopsided Grand Marnier soufflé. The exquisite, powdery blandness of the tasting menu going-home present, cake aux marrons glacés, brings it all softly, dreamily, back next morning at breakfast. Expensive but wonderful.