Travel information: getting around Paris

The six travel zones of Paris are pretty easy to cover by the quick and efficient métro (underground), as well as buses and a couple of tramlines and rail services running into the suburbs. Congested streets at rush hour might make driving a frustrating option and finding a parking space can be a nightmare.

There's nothing to beat simply walking around Paris if you want to fully appreciate the city's many charms. Arm yourself with a Paris street map (Plan de Paris), available from newsagents. The blue Paris Pratique is clear and compact.

Public transport

Before you travel anywhere by public transport, pick up free maps of the métro (underground), bus and rail systems around Paris (available at airports and stations). Other useful brochures from métro stations are Paris Visite – Le Guide, with details of transport tickets and a small map, and Plan de Paris, a fold-out one showing Noctambus night bus lines.

Almost all of the Paris public transport system is run by the RATP (Régie Autonome des Transports Parisiens; 08.92.69.32.46, www.ratp.fr): the bus, métro (underground) and suburban tram routes, as well as lines A and B of the RER (Réseau Express Régional) suburban express railway, which connects with the métro within the city centre. National rail operator SNCF (08.92.35.35.35, www.sncf.com) runs RER lines C, D and E, and serves the Paris suburbs (Banlieue), and French regions and abroad (Grandes Lignes).

Fares & tickets

Paris and suburbs are divided into six travel zones; zones 1 and 2 cover the city centre. RATP tickets and passes are valid on the métro, bus and RER. Tickets and carnets can be bought at métro stations, tourist offices and tabacs (tobacconists); single tickets can also be bought on buses. Hold on to your ticket in case of spot checks; you’ll also need it to exit from RER stations.

A single ticket T+ costs €1.60, but it’s more economical to buy a carnet of ten for €11.40.

A one-day Mobilis pass costs from €5.80 for zones 1 and 2 to €16.40 for zones 1-6 (not including airports).

A one-day Paris Visite pass for zones 1-3 is €8.50; a five-day pass is €27.50, with discounts on some attractions.

One-week or one-month Carte Orange passes (passport photo needed) offer unlimited travel in the relevant zones; if bought in zones 1 or 2, each is delivered as a Navigo swipe card. A forfait mensuel (monthly Carte Orange valid from the first day of the month) for zones 1 and 2 costs €55.10; a weekly forfait hebdomadaire (weekly Carte Orange valid Mon-Sun inclusive) for zones 1 and 2 costs €16.80 and is better value than Paris Visite passes.

Métro & RER

The Paris métro is the fastest and cheapest way of getting around. Trains run 5.30am-12.40am Mon-Thur, 5.30am-1.30am Fri-Sun. Individual lines are numbered, with each direction named after the last stop. Follow the orange Correspondance to change lines. Some interchanges, such as Châtelet-Les-Halles, Montparnasse-Bienvenüe and République, involve long walks. The exit (Sortie) is indicated in blue. The driverless line 14 runs from Gare St-Lazare to Olympiades. Pickpockets and bag-snatchers are rife on the network – pay special attention as the doors are closing.

The five RER lines (A, B, C, D and E) run 5.30am-1am daily through Paris and out into the suburbs. Within Paris, the RER is useful for faster journeys – Châtelet-Les-Halles to Gare du

Nord is one stop on the RER, and six on the métro. Métro tickets are valid for RER journeys within zones 1 and 2.

Buses

Buses run 6.30am-8.30pm, with some routes continuing until 12.30am, Mon-Sat; limited services operate on selected lines Sun and public holidays. You can use a métro ticket, a ticket bought from the driver (€1.60) or a travel pass. Tickets should be punched in the machine next to the driver; passes should be shown to the driver. When you want to get off, press the red request button.

Night buses

After the métro and normal buses stop running, the only public transport – apart from taxis – are the 42 Noctilien lines, between place du Châtelet and the suburbs (hourly 12.30am-5.30am Mon-Thur; half-hourly 1am-5.35am Fri, Sat); look out for the Noctilien logo on bus stops or the N in front of the route number. A ticket costs €1.60; travel passes are valid.

River transport

Batobus

08.25.05.01.01/www.batobus.com.

River buses stop every 15-25mins at: Eiffel Tower, Musée d’Orsay, St-Germain-des-Prés (quai Malaquais), Notre-Dame, Jardin des Plantes, Hôtel de Ville, Louvre, Champs-Elysées (Pont Alexandre III). They run Nov-Mar 10.30am-4.30pm; Mar-May & Sept-Nov 10am-7pm; June-Aug 10am-9.30pm. A one-day pass is €12 (€6, €8 reductions); two-day pass €14 (€7, €9 reductions); five-day pass €17 (€8, €11 reductions); season-ticket €55 (€35 reductions). Tickets can be bought at Batobus stops, RATP ticket offices and the Office de Tourisme (www.parisinfo.com).

Trams

Two modern tram lines operate in the suburbs, running from La Défense to Issy-Val de Seine and from Bobigny Pablo Picasso to St-Denis; a third runs between the Garigliano Bridge in the west of the city to Porte d’Ivry in the south-east. They connect with the métro and RER; fares are the same as for buses.

Rail

Suburban destinations are served by the RER. Other locations farther from the city are served by the SNCF railway; the TGV high-speed train has slashed journey times and is being extended to all the main regions. There are few long-distance bus services. Tickets can be bought at any SNCF station (not just the one from which you’ll travel), SNCF shops and travel agents. If you reserve online or by phone, you can pay and pick up your tickets from the station or have them sent to your home. SNCF automatic machines (billeterie automatique) only work with French credit/debit cards.

Regular trains have full-rate White (peak) and cheaper Blue (off-peak) periods. You can save on TGV fares by buying special cards. The Carte 12/25 gives under-26s a 25-50 per cent reduction; even without it, under-26s are entitled to 25 per cent off. Buy tickets in advance to secure the cheaper fare. Before you board any train, stamp your ticket in the orange composteur machines located on the platforms, or you might have to pay a hefty fine.

SNCF reservations & tickets

National reservations/information

08.92.35.35.35 (€0.34 per min)/www.sncf.com. Open 7am-10pm daily. You can also dial 3635 and say ‘billet’ at the prompt.

Mainline stations

Gare d’Austerlitz: Central and south-west France and Spain

Gare de l’Est Alsace: Champagne and southern Germany

Gare de Lyon: Burgundy, the Alps, Provence and Italy

Gare Montparnasse: West France, Brittany, Bordeaux, the south-west

Gare du Nord: Eurostar, Channel ports, north-east France, Belgium and Holland

Gare St-Lazare: Normandy

Taxis

Paris taxi drivers are not known for their flawless knowledge of the Paris street map; if you have a preferred route, say so. Taxis can also be hard to find, especially at rush hour or early in the morning. Your best bet is to find a taxi rank (station de taxis, marked with a blue sign) on major roads, crossroads and at stations. A white light on a taxi’s roof indicates the car is free; an orange light means the cab is busy. There is a service charge of €2.10. The rates are then based on zone and time of day:

A: 10am-5pm Mon-Sat central Paris, €0.82 per km

B: 5pm-10am Mon-Fri, 5pm-midnight Sat, 7am-midnight Sun central Paris; 7am-7pm Mon-Sat inner suburbs and airports, €1.10 per km

C: midnight-7am Sun central Paris; 7pm-7am Mon-Sat, all day Sun inner suburbs and airports; all times outer suburbs, €1.33 per km

Most journeys in central Paris cost €6-€12; there’s a minimum charge of €5.60, plus €1 for each piece of luggage over 5kg or bulky objects, and a €0.70 surcharge from mainline stations. Most drivers will not take more than three people, although they should take a couple and two children. There is an additional charge of €2.75 for a fourth adult passenger.

Don’t feel obliged to tip, although rounding up to the nearest euro is polite. Taxis are not allowed to refuse rides if they deem them too short and can only refuse to take you in a certain direction during their last half-hour of service (both rules are often ignored). If you want a receipt, ask for un reçu or la note. Complaints should be made to the Bureau de la réglementation publique, 36 rue des Morillons, 75732 Paris Cedex 15.

Phone cabs

These firms take phone bookings 24/7; you also pay for the time it takes your taxi to reach you. If you wish to pay by credit card, mention this when you order.

Airportaxis: 01.41.50.42.50/www.taxiparisien.fr

Alpha: 01.45.85.85.85/www.alphataxis.fr

G7: 01.47.39.47.39/www.taxis-g7.fr

Taxis Bleus: 08.91.70.10.10/www.taxis-bleus.com

Driving

If you bring your car to France, you must bring its registration and insurance documents. As you come into Paris, you will meet the Périphérique, the giant ring road that carries traffic into, out of and around the city. Intersections, leading on to other main roads, are called portes (gates). Driving on the Périphérique is not as hair-raising as it might look, though it’s often congested. Some hotels have parking spaces that can be paid for by the hour, day or by types of season tickets.

In peak holiday periods, the organisation Bison Futé hands out brochures at motorway péages (toll gates), suggesting less crowded routes.

Roads

French roads are categorised as Autoroutes (motorways, with an ‘A’ in front of the number), Routes Nationales (national ‘N’ roads), Routes Départementales (local, ‘D’ roads) and rural Routes Communales (‘C’ roads). Autoroutes are toll roads; some sections, including most of the area around Paris, are free.

Infotrafic: 08.99.70.71.01 (€0.34 per minute)/www.infotrafic.fr

Bison Futé: 08.00.10.02.00/www.bison-fute.equipement.gouv.fr

Traffic information service for Ile-de-France: 08.26.02.20.22/www.securiteroutiere.gouv.fr

Breakdown services

The AA and RAC do not have reciprocal arrangements with an equivalent organisation in France, so it’s advisable to take out additional breakdown insurance cover, for example with a company like Europ Assistance (0870 737 5720/www.europ-assistance.co.uk). If you don’t have insurance, you can still use its service (08.10.00.50.50, available 24/7), but it will charge you the full cost. Other 24-hour breakdown services in Paris include: Action Auto Assistance (01.45.58.49.58) and Dan Dépann Auto (01.40.06.06.53).

Driving tips

At junctions where no signposts indicate right of way, the car coming from the right has priority. Many roundabouts now give priority to those on the roundabout. If this is not indicated (by road markings or a sign with the message Vous n’avez pas la priorité), priority is for those coming from the right.

Drivers and all passengers must wear seat belts.

Under-tens are not allowed to travel in the front of a car, except in baby seats facing backwards.

You should not stop on an open road; you must pull off to the side.

When drivers are flashing their lights at you, this often means they will not slow down and are warning you to keep out of the way.

Parking

There are still a few free on-street parking areas in Paris, but they’re often full. If you park illegally, you risk getting your car clamped or towed away (see below). It’s forbidden to park in zones marked for deliveries (livraisons) or taxis. Parking meters have now been replaced by horodateurs, pay-and-display machines, which take a special card (carte de stationnement at €10 or €30, available from tabacs). Parking is often free at weekends, after 7pm and in August.

Car hire

To hire a car, you must be 25 or over and have held a licence for at least a year. Some agencies accept drivers aged 21-24, but a supplement of €20-€25 per day is usual. Take your licence and passport with you. Bargain firms may have an extremely high charge for damage: read the small print.

Hire companies

Ada: 01.48.06.58.13/08.25.16.91.69/www.ada.fr

Avis: 01.44.18.10.54/08.20.05.05.05/www.avis.fr

Budget: 01.41.22.19.30/08.25.00.35.64/www.budget.fr

EasyCar: 01.70.61.85.52/www.easycar.com

Europcar: 01.53.64.16.24/08.25.35.83.58/www.europcar.fr

Hertz: 01.39.38.38.38/www.hertz.fr

Rent-a-Car: 08.91.70.02.00/www.rentacar.fr

Chauffeur-driven cars

Chauffeur Services Paris

(01.75.43.48.86/www.csparis.com). Open 24hrs daily. Prices from €125 airport transfer; €240 for 4 hours. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V.

Cycling

In 2007, the mayor launched a free bike scheme – Vélib (www.velib.paris.fr). There are now over 20,000 bicycles available 24 hours a day, at nearly 1500 ‘stations’ across the city. Just swipe your travel card to release the bikes from their stands. The mairie actively promotes cycling in the city and the Vélib scheme is complemented by the 372 km (231 miles) of bike lanes snaking their way around Paris.

The Itinéraires Paris-Piétons-Vélos-Rollers – scenic strips of the city that are closed to cars on Sundays and holidays – continue to multiply; www.paris.fr can provide an up-to-date list of routes and a downloadable map of cycle lanes. A free Paris à Vélo map can be picked up at any mairie or from bike shops. Cycle lanes (pistes cyclables) run mostly N-S and E-W. N-S routes include rue de Rennes, av d’Italie, bd Sébastopol and av Marceau. E-W routes take in the rue de Rivoli, bd St-Germain, bd St-Jacques and av Daumesnil. You could be fined (€22) if you don’t use them. Cyclists are also entitled to use certain bus lanes (especially the new ones, set off by a strip of kerb stones); look out for traffic signs with a bike symbol.

Don’t let the locals’ blasé attitude to helmets and lights convince you it’s not worth using them. Be confident and keep moving – and look out for scooter-mounted bag-snatchers.

Cycles & scooters for hire

Bike insurance may not cover theft.

Freescoot

63 quai de la Tournelle, 5th (01.44.07.06.72/www.freescoot.com). Mº Maubert Mutualité or St-Michel. Open 9am-1pm, 2-9pm daily; closed Sun Oct-mid Apr. Credit AmEx, MC, V.

Bicycles & scooters.

Other locations: 144 bd Voltaire, 11th (01.44.93.04.03).

Maison Roue Libre

1 passage Mondétour, 1st (01.44.76.86.43/08.10.44.15.34/www.rouelibre.fr). Mº Châtelet. Open 10am-6pm daily. Credit MC, V (weekends only).

Bicycles.

Other locations: 37 bd Bourdon, 4th (01.42.71.54.54).

Walking

Walking is the best way to explore Paris; just remember to remain vigilant at all times. Brits should be aware that traffic will be coming from the ‘wrong’ direction and that zebra crossings mean very little. By law, drivers are only obliged to stop at a red traffic light – even then, many will take a calculated risk.

Tours

Bus tours

The following companies offer hop-on, hop-off bus tours of the city with commentary. Call or check online for precise routes. Prices are for one day only, but other fares (for multiple days) may be available.

Les Cars Rouges

01.53.95.39.53/www.carsrouges.com. Tickets €24; €12 4-11s.

Cityrama

01.44.55.61.00/www.pariscityrama.com. Tickets €29; €15 4-11s.

Paris l’OpenTour

01.42.66.56.56/http://paris-opentour.com. Tickets €29; €15 4-11s.

Paris Vision

01.42.60.30.01/http://fr.parisvision.com. Tickets €22.

Bike tours

Fat Tire Bike Tours

01.56.58.10.54/http://fattirebiketours.com/paris. Tickets €24.

Bike tours of the city, with the main tour starting at the south leg of the Eiffel Tower. Tours run daily at 11am, with a 3pm tour added in summer. Check online for full details.

Boat tours

Crusising along the Seine is a delightful way to see Paris. The companies below all run a variety of tours on the river. Most boats depart from the quays in the 7th and 8th, and proceed to go on a circuit around the islands. Check online for full tour details and times: many companies operate more than one type of tour, though the basic tour usually runs every 20-60mins in summer. Rates are for one day only, though other tickets may be available.

Bateaux-Mouches

Pont de l’Alma 8th (01.42.25.96.10/www.bateaux-mouches.fr). Mº Alma-Marceau. Tickets €10; €5 reductions; free under-4s.

Bateaux Parisiens

Port de la Boudonnais, 7th (01.76.64.14.45/www.bateauxparisiens.com). RER Champ de Mars. Tickets €11; €5 reductions; free under-3s.

Batobus Tour Eiffel

Various stops (08.25.05.01.01/www.batobus.com). Tickets €12; €6 reductions.

Vedettes de Paris

Port de Suffren, 7th (01.44.18.19.50/www.vedettesdeparis.com). Mº Bir-Hakeim. Tickets €11; €5 reductions; free under-4s.

Vedettes du Pont-Neuf

Sq du Vert-Galant, 1st (01.46.33.98.38/www.vedettesdupontneuf.com). Mº Pont-Neuf. Tickets €11; €6 under-12s; free under-4s.

Walking tours

Paris Walking Tours

01.48.09.21.40/www.paris-walks.com. Tickets €10; €5-€8 reductions.

Led by long-term resident expats, daily walks (times vary by season) explore various city locales.

Our listings

While every effort and care has been made to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this guide, the publisher cannot accept responsibility for any errors it may contain. Before you go out of your way, we strongly advise you to phone ahead and check the particulars.