Bars & pubs in Paris

Decor-wise, 'traditional' is getting harder and harder to find in Paris's bars and pubs. In some cases, that's good: the iconic, scruffy neighbourhood haunt with its revolting Turkish loo and peeling paintwork is fortunately becoming a thing of the past. But in others, Paris's classic red banquettes and zinc bars are rapidly being replaced by the sort of slick haute design one might find in New York or London.

Though to get a flavour of old school boozing, pay a visit to landmark addresses such as La Palette, with its art deco tiles and leafy terrace, Le Cochon à l’Oreille, a remnant of Les Halles’ heyday as the city’s food market and Chez Jeanette (pictured), which has retained its original 1940s features.

The line between bars and cafes is blurred in Paris. Many wine bars serve bistro meals – at places such as Racines you can order a top-notch cheese or charcuterie plate – while in the ubiquitous Parisian café, where you might drop by for a sandwich, wine can be cheaper than water.

Where to drink

The happening East & North-East

When you’re after something stronger than coffee, the 10th (North-East Paris) and 11th (Eastern Paris) arrondissements, especially around Oberkampf, continue to be the most happening areas for bars. Café Charbon, which acts as both a restaurant and pre-club cocktail bar, and L’Alimentation Generale, whose excellent concerts give precious stage space to up-and-coming musicians, are the places to be seen in. Other trendy locals gravitate towards grungy all-nighters like Le Sancerre or La Fourmi.

Although ‘north-east drag’ might sound like a private club for trannies from Chez Michou, it’s actually the nickname given to the rows of bars that have recently sprung up in the 11th (Eastern Paris) and 19th arrondissements (North-East Paris). Whether you’re in the market for extended happy hours, swift aperitifs or after-dinner tipples, there are plenty of places to while away the night or fall over with flair. Check out the Oberkampf in the 11th for jazz, cool kids and cocktails and along the Canal de l'Ourcq in the 19th for great views, meat platters and shabby chic.

Where the smart set drink

For those with money to burn, the city’s other party central is the area around Champs-Elysées. Abandoned by all but a ‘wannabe’ crowd a few years ago, the area has regained favour with the smart set and now boasts some very posh addresses indeed. If you’re curious, have a tipple in Le Dada and count the designer handbags.

Museum bars

Several of Paris’s museums have begun boldly defying the convention by incorporating late-opening bars into their cultural offerings. The punters are Parisians, mainly the kind who frequent museums in the daylight hours, returning to savour the refined atmosphere and take advantage of some of the best views in the city. Join the parigots in their quest for night-time fulfilment and check out the following museum bars:

For a cultivated cocktail, head to Le Saut du Loup in the Musée des Arts Décoratifs with its sober mix of black, white and grey reflective surfaces, a well-heeled crowd and prices to match.

For fun art world drinking, the bar inside the Palais de Tokyo fits the bill perfectly. The decor – all industrial concrete and bright, trendy tables – is as wacky as the drinks menu.

The m’as-tu vu crowd head up to Georges – the famously avant-garde bar-restaurant on the top of the Centre Pompidou, while the Musée de l’Homme’s Café de l’Homme has established itself as one of the Chaillot area’s best hangouts.

Top tips

Brasseries and bistros: the sturdy brasserie and noble bistro provide food with formality akin to a restaurant, so if you’re just there for a drink, you’ll pay more for the social nicety of aproned and waistcoated service. You can usually run a tab, and tipping is optional.

Money savers: it’s cheaper to drink at the counter than be served at a table, cheaper inside than on the terrace, and cheaper before 10pm, when a tarif de nuit might be imposed.

Smoking: France has banned smoking inside public venues, turning the terraces into open-air ashtrays – especially in summer when sun worshipping frequently equates to cigarette smoking. Non-smokers grin and bear it.

Tipping: a service charge of ten to 15 per cent is legally included in your bill at all restaurants, cafés and bars. However it is polite to either round up the final amount for drinks, or to leave a cash tip of €1-€2 for a meal, depending on the restaurant and of course the quality of the service.

Our listings

While every effort and care has been made to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this guide, the publisher cannot accept responsibility for any errors it may contain. Before you go out of your way, we strongly advise you to phone ahead and check the particulars.

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