Paris

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Chez Toinette

20 rue Germain-Pilon, 18th

This stalwart purveyor of bistro fare has a good-value blackboard menu in an area known for rip-offs. Of the starters, try the pleasing chèvre chaud with a glorious creamy st-marcellin on a bed of rocket and lettuce; carnivorous mains include mignon de porc, spring lamb and assorted steaks – the lamb seared in rosemary is a deliciously lean morsel. You can round it all off with armagnac-steeped prunes.

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