Paris

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Le Comptoir

Hôtel Relais Saint-Germain, 9 carrefour de l’Odéon, 6th

The art deco dining room at chef Yves Camdeborde’s bijou 17th-century hotel serves brasserie fare from noon to 6pm and on weekend nights – salads and a hot plat du jour, like duck confit with smooth mashed potatoes – and a five-course, no-choice meal for €40 on weekday evenings. On the daily menu, you might find dishes like iced cream of chicken soup spiked with vin jaune du Jura, or rolled saddle of lamb with vegetable-stuffed ‘Basque ravioli’. See left The new Paris bistro.

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