Paris

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Le Train Bleu

Gare de Lyon, cour Louis-Armand, 12th

This listed dining room – with vintage frescoes of destinations served by the Paris-Lyon-Marseille railway and big oak benches with shiny brass coat racks – exudes pleasant expectation. Expect fine renderings of French classics using first-rate produce. Lobster served on walnut-oil-dressed salad leaves is a lovely starter; you can follow it with sandre (pike-perch) accompanied by a ‘risotto’ of crozettes.

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