Paris

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Allard

41 rue St-André-des-Arts, 6th

This fine, traditional bistro has a pre-war feel, an impression confirmed by the kitchen, which sends out the sort of glorious Gallic grub you come to Paris for. Start with sliced Lyonnaise sausage studded with pistachios and served with potato salad in delicious vinaigrette, or maybe a sauté of wild mushrooms; then try roast Bresse chicken with sautéed ceps or roast duck with olives. Finish up with the tarte fine de pommes.

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