Paris

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Chez René

14 bd St-Germain, 5th

René Cinquin opened this place in 1957. These days it’s René’s son Jean-Paul who chats with diners, but the silver cutlery, starched linen and hard work in the kitchen are still here. The coq au vin is the main attraction, the secret of whose succulent sauce is no stock, just 20 minutes stirring flour and butter over a feeble flame before adding the wine – just as René’s granny would have taught him. Similar skill goes into the boeuf bourguignon.

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