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- Area:
- Opéra to Les Halles
- Category:
- Vive la France
- Price:
- moderate
- Address:
- 32 rue St-Marc, 2nd
- Info:
- (01.42.96.65.04).
Mº Bourse or
Richelieu Drouot.
Open noon-2pm, 7.30-11pm Tue-Fri; 7.30-11pm Sat. Closed 3wks Aug & 1wk Dec. Bistro.
Aux Lyonnais
32 rue St-Marc, 2nd
This classic bistro run by Alain Ducasse has gorgeous belle-époque tiles and an antique zinc bar. From the menu of intelligently modernised Lyonnais, Bressane and Beaujolais classics, start with charcuterie from Sibilla (the best in Lyon); follow with steak served with sautéed shallots and a side of cheesy, garlicky mash. Wind up with the sublime st-marcellin cheese and a Cointreau soufflé.




4 Comments
I trusted Michelin and Frommers guide and made a reservation at “Aux Lyonnais”. They promised that “after a meal here, you'll know why Lyon is called the gastronomic capital of France. [...] The day's menu is based on the freshest produce in the market that morning. Inventiveness and solid technique characterize such dishes as parsleyed calves' liver, pike dumplings (the best in Paris),...”
What did I find? A simple salad, charcuterie and boudin noir, mediocre quenelle et ecrevisses. Excuse me, but where is the inventiveness? While I like charcuterie and boudin noir there is no need to go to a restaurant to try it, you buy it at the grocery store and eat it straight; there is no need to pay 40$ for that.
But the worst was yet to come. The wine list started with a 29 € “Bourgogne Pinot noir” and went on with much more expensive wines. I ordered the first one. To my surprise, at the end of a disappointing dinner, I received a bill charging 112 € (152 $) for a Gevrey Mugneret that I didn't order. I pointed that this was a mistake but it happened that they had served me this expensive wine and I hadn't noticed it. They pointed to the bottle and insisted that I had been served that wine and had to pay for it. How could I prove that it was their mistake? Am I supposed to record myself when ordering? Am I supposed to ask for a written copy of my order and keep it to prevent this kind of assault? Am I supposed to check carefully the bottle label just in case they make a mistake and change the wine, or the year?
I've been five times in Paris and about a dozen more in France, and never encountered a scam like this. I will go back again but I wonder whether travel guides can be trusted any more.
I encourage everybody to travel to Paris and enjoy french cuisine in the thousands of restaurants that are doing a honest job, but be warned about wasting your time and money at “Aux Lyonnais”. Posted on May 18 2007 11:26
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