Paris

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Mon Vieil Ami

69 rue St-Louis-en-l’Ile, 4th

On Antony Clemot’s short but tempting menu, outstanding starters include pâté en croûte (a buttery pastry enclosing delicious terrine with a cap of beef aspic and a lobe of foie gras) and mixed root vegetables in bouillon with foie gras. Among the mains, a slow-braised shoulder of roebuck is accompanied by celery, quince, chestnuts and prunes, served with a pretty Alsatian earthenware dish generously filled with white beans stewed with garlic cloves, bay leaf and tomato, and all of it topped with tender squid.

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