Paris

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Brasserie de l’Ile St-Louis

55 quai de Bourbon, 4th

Happily, this old-fashioned brasserie soldiers on while exotic juice bars and fancy tea shops on the Ile St-Louis come and go. The terrace has one of the best summer views in all Paris, and is invariably packed; the dining room exudes a rather shabby fashionability. Nicotined walls make for an agreeably authentic Paris mood, as does the slightly gruff waiter, though nothing here is at all gastronomically gripping: a well dressed frisée aux lardons, a slab of somewhat ordinary terrine, a greasy slice of foie de veau prepared à l’anglaise with a rasher of bacon, and a more successful pan of warming tripe. Just a dash more sophistication in the kitchen would transform this delightful place into something approaching exceptional.

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