Paris

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L’Arpège

84 rue de Varenne, 7th

If you can swallow a sky-high bill – €42 for a starter! – and forsake the full-dress drill of a haute cuisine meal, you’ll have a spectacular time at chef Alain Passard’s Left Bank table. The minimalist dining room looks like something from old East Germany; but then the food arrives, such as tiny smoked potatoes with a horseradish mousseline, vegetable-stuffed ravioli in lobster bouillon, or mains like sautéed free-range chicken garnished with potato mousseline and pan juices.

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