The award-winning Marie Quatrehomme runs this fromagerie. Justly famous for her comté fruité, beaufort and st-marcellin, she also sells specialities such as goat's cheese with...

Shelves groan under stuffed aubergines, halva, falafel and all manner of Middle Eastern delicacies.

Cantin, a defender of unpasteurised cheese and supplier to many posh Paris restaurants, offers aged chèvres and amazing morbier, mont d'or and comté.

Each chocolate ganache has an intricate design, packages look like jewel boxes, and each purchase comes with a tract on how best to savour the stuff.