A 1960s legend, Drugstore Publicis was clad with neon swirls by architect Michele Saee following a renovation in 2004; a glass-and-steel café stretches out on to the pavement....

The city's most famous food shop is worth a visit, particularly for the beautifully packaged gift items.

This motherly, yellow-fronted shop, in business since 1946, stocks dense Jewish cakes filled with poppy seeds, apples or cream cheese.

Pastry superstar Hermé attracts connoisseurs from St-Germain and afar with his seasonal collections.