It's more than a century since tourist-choked Montmartre was the centre of artistic activity in Paris. But now the north of Paris is again where the action is - albeit a couple...
104 rue d'AubervilliersA la Bière looks like one of those nondescript corner brasseries, but what makes it stand out is an amazingly good-value €13.40 prix fixe full of fine bistro favourites. White...
104 av Simon-BolivarAntoine et Lili's fuchsia-pink, custard-yellow and apple-green shopfronts, reflected in the Canal St-Martin, are a new raver's dream. The bobo designer's clothes, often in...
95 quai de ValmyThis was one of the first hip joints to hit the Canal de l'Ourcq, with an embankment broad enough to accommodate pétanque games (ask at the bar) and a cluster of deckchairs....
68 quai de la LoireA spanking new hybrid venue that triples as a restaurant, bar and DJ lounge for an übercool, bobo clientele. Friday nights are for resident DJs, and Saturdays bring live bands...
21 rue Juliette DoduThis splendid DJ bar has expanded its brief and its opening hours to become an all-day café - without compromising any of the cool that keeps it well ahead of the pack after...
44 bd de la VilletteA popular DJ bar, especially in summer, when fashionistas flock to the terrace. Cool live music is played from Thursdays to Saturdays after 10pm. Expect anything from DJ Jet...
44 bd de la VillettePatron Adel is probably the most renowned chanson café owner in Paris, and this fine address attracts countless devotees with its repertoire of chanson and Eastern European sounds.
10 rue de la Grange-aux-BellesWhen she sold her café back in March 2007, Jeanette handed over to the young team from Chez Justine because they promised not to change a thing. Now the monstrous 1940s lights,...
47 rue du Fbg-St DenisChez Prune is an excellent lunch spot, and still one of the best places to spend an evening on the Canal St-Martin. The local bobo HQ, this traditional café, with high ceilings...
36 rue BeaurepaireMistinguett and Maurice Chevalier used to perform in this 19th-century music hall before it was demolished and rebuilt as a cinema in 1933. Now a theatre again (since the...
4 bd de StrasbourgFounded as a monastery in the 17th century when still outside the city walls, this barracks, spinning factory and hospice was a military hospital from 1860 to 1968. Left empty,...
148 rue du Fbg-St-MartinIn a loft-style studio, this unusual florist combines exotic flowers, trees and garden themed items, such as floral printed rain hats. Truly original.
46 rue de LancryTo look at the fluffy, golden croissants at Du Pain et des Idées as they emerge steaming from the oven, you would never guess that French baking is in crisis - but it is. 'They...
34 rue Yves ToudicSet at the top of terraced gardens, this church was begun in 1824 by Lepère and completed in 1844 by Hittorff. The twin towers, pedimented Greek temple portico and sculptures...
5 rue Belzunce