If your New Year’s resolution is to commit to a regular organic veg box delivery, be in no doubt that using up all the contents before they become inedible can be a challenge. Sadly, suppliers are often more committed to the ideology of their schemes than good food – witness the all-too-frequent inclusion of sprouts, withered greens, brown avocados and bruised bananas.
However one veg box company, Riverford Farm, has literally put its money where its mouth is, opening an excellent flagship restaurant on its South Devon property. Chef Jane Baxter is a River Café alumnus and their style can clearly be seen in her dishes, which make up a large portion of this beautifully photographed book.
It’s an inspiration when you’re looking for more ways to glam-up the carrots, cabbage and turnips that play such a monotonous role in our winter diets, or need to use ‘The Last Leek’, as one section is called. The bonus is compelling essays by Riverford owner Guy Watson, which are scattered throughout. His frank tone and years of experience in the organic movement combine to give readers much food for thought.
Jenni Muir, Time Out London Issue 2003: January 8-14 2009