Festivals & events in Rome

Jazz, fashion, photography, theatre, tennis: it's not all religious festas

Festivals & events in Rome Cosmophonies - Festival Internazionale di Ostia Antica
By Natasha Foges and Time Out editors

The Romans, perennial fun-seekers, have never needed much of an excuse for a knees-up; in ancient times a whopping 150 days were set aside every year for R&R. Though modern-day Romans must make do with a paltry ten annual public holidays, the final total is usually quite a bit more: any holiday that falls midweek is invariably taken as an invitation to fare il ponte ('do a bridge') – take an extra day or two off between the official holiday and the weekend.

Important religious holidays tend to shut down the entire city. Different districts of Rome hold smaller-scale celebrations of their own patron saints in their own way, from calorific blowouts to costume parades, to extravagant fireworks displays. Rome's savvy mayor Walter Veltroni has lavished an embarrassment of cultural riches on the city in recent years, striking a good balance between small-scale, independent festivals and bigger-budget citywide events, which make ample use of Rome's endless supply of photogenic venues.

Critic's choice

Festa di Santa Francesca Romana

Where: Monastero Oblate di Santa Francesca Romana, via Teatro di Marcello 32 & 40
When: 9 Mar
Tel: 06 679 3565
In 1433 Santa Francesca Romana founded the Oblate di Maria, an order of nuns who never took final vows. She was believed to possess the gift of dislocation – being in several different places at once – a quality that so endeared her to Italy's pioneer motorists that they made her their patron saint. Devout Roman drivers get their motors blessed at her church in the Foro Romano on 9 March.

Giornate FAI

Where: various locations
When: date varies (see website)
Tel & website: information 06 689 6752/www.fondoambiente.it
For one weekend each spring, the Fondo per l'Ambiente Italiano (FAI) persuades institutional and private owners of historic properties to reveal their spectacular interiors, usually off-limits to the public.

Settimana della Cultura

Where: various venues
When: one week in Spring
Tel & website: 800 991 199/www.beniculturali.it
During Cultural Heritage Week, the state-owned museums and monuments throw their doors open to the public without charge.

Natale di Roma

Where: Campidoglio
When: 21 Apr
Not all cities celebrate their birthday... but Rome, 'born' in 753 BC, is no ordinary city. The bulk of the festivities take place at the Campidoglio. The city hall and the other palazzi on the hill are illuminated, and enormous quantities of fireworks are set off.

Roma Incontra il Mondo

Where: Villa Ada, via di Ponte Salario, Suburbs: north
When: mid June-early Aug
Tel & website: 06 4173 4712/06 4173 4648/www.villaada.org
Musicians from around the world play on a lakeside stage beneath the venerable trees of the Villa Ada park. Lights reflected in the water and cool breezes make this one of the most atmospheric and relaxing of the summer festivals. If the music palls there are bars and stalls purveying ethnic food, music and books.

Gay Village

Where: venue changes from year to year
When: late June-early Sept 7pm-3am daily
Website: www.gayvillage.it
A ten-week open-air bonanza that makes summer the pinkest season of the year: bars, restaurants, live acts, discos, cinema – a great place for boys and girls alike. Venue and contact details change from year to year, but the website reveals all as the date approaches.

Festa de Noantri

Where: Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere/piazza Mastai
When: mid-end July
Though few traces of Trastevere's working-class roots remain today, the area's residents celebrate its humble origins with gusto during the Festa de' Noantri. Festivities kick off with a procession held in honour of the Madonna del Carmine, to whom the whole shebang is theoretically dedicated. Two weeks of arts events and street performances follow, and fireworks round off the closing night.

Cinema – Festa Internazionale di Roma

Where: various venues
When: Oct
Website: www.romacinemafest.org
Started in 2006, Rome finally got itself a film festival to match its iconic cinematic status, giving the city's once glorious film industy a much-needed shot in the arm. Organisational hitches should be ironed out as the festival gains in maturity. Linked to another feisty newcomer – New York's Tribeca Film Festival – this event has both arthouse kudos and the money to attract the stars and the big players.

Spring

Festa di Santa Francesca Romana

Where: Monastero Oblate di Santa Francesca Romana, via Teatro di Marcello 32 & 40
When: 9 Mar
Tel: 06 679 3565
In 1433 Santa Francesca Romana founded the Oblate di Maria, an order of nuns who never took final vows. She was believed to possess the gift of dislocation – being in several different places at once – a quality that so endeared her to Italy's pioneer motorists that they made her their patron saint. Devout Roman drivers get their motors blessed at her church in the Foro Romano on 9 March.

Palazzo Massimo alle Colonne

Where: Palazzo Massimo alle Colonne
When: 16 Mar (8am-1pm)
San Filippo Neri performed one of his most celebrated miracles in the palazzo of the noble Massimo family. Called to administer the last rites to young Paolo Massimo, the saint found the boy already dead; undaunted, he revived Paolo, chatted for a while, then – when the boy was ready to meet his maker – commended him to God. On the anniversary, after a private mass, a procession of family, servants and altar boys escorts the presiding cardinal or archbishop to a private room for a slap-up buffet. Turn up around 11.30am to witness the spectacle in all its Felliniesque glory.

Festa di San Giuseppe

Where: around via Trionfale
When: 19 Mar
Though no longer an official public holiday, the feast of St Joseph remains popular, especially in the Trionfale district of northern Rome. In the run-up to the feast, the city's pasticcerie are piled high with deep-fried batter-balls called bignè di San Giuseppe.

Settimana della Cultura

Where: various venues
When: one week in Spring
Tel & website: 800 991 199/www.beniculturali.it
During Cultural Heritage Week, the state-owned museums and monuments throw their doors open to the public without charge.

Maratona della Città di Roma

Where: starts via dei Fori Imperiali
When: 3rd or 4th Sun in Mar
Tel & website: 06 406 5064/www.maratonadiroma.it
Rome's annual marathon now attracts big-name runners. The serious race begins and ends in via dei Fori Imperiali; sign up online (the sooner you register, the lower the fee). The Stracittadina fun-run is a 5km (3-mile) jog through the centro storico for those not up to the 42km (26-mile) slog over cobblestones; sign up at the Marathon Village (usually in the Palazzo dei Congressi in EUR, but check online) up to a day before the event.

Festa di Primavera – Mostra delle Azalee

Where: Piazza di Spagna
When: end Mar, early Apr
Spring arrives early in Rome, bringing masses of blooms. When the azaleas come out, some 3,000 vases of them are arranged on the Spanish Steps.

Settimana Santa & Pasqua (Holy Week & Easter)

Where: Vatican; Colosseum
When: Mar/Apr
Tourists and pilgrims flood into the city on the Saturday before Palm Sunday, cramming inside St Peter's square for the open-air mass. The non-stop services of Holy Week peak in the pope's Stations of the Cross (Via Crucis) and mass at the Colosseum late on the evening of Good Friday. On Pasquetta (Easter Monday), tradition coaxes Romans fuori porta (outside the city gates) to feast upon lavish picnics of such specialities as torta pasqualina (cheesy bread, with salami and hard-boiled eggs) and fave e pecorino (broad beans and cheese).

Natale di Roma

Where: Campidoglio
When: 21 Apr
Not all cities celebrate their birthday... but Rome, 'born' in 753 BC, is no ordinary city. The bulk of the festivities take place at the Campidoglio. The city hall and the other palazzi on the hill are illuminated, and enormous quantities of fireworks are set off.

Festa della Liberazione

Where: various locations
When: 25 Apr
This public holiday commemorates the liberation of Italy by Allied forces at the end of World War II.

Giornate FAI

Where: various locations
When: date varies (see website)
Tel & website: information 06 689 6752/www.fondoambiente.it
For one weekend each spring, the Fondo per l'Ambiente Italiano (FAI) persuades institutional and private owners of historic properties to reveal their spectacular interiors, usually off-limits to the public.

FotoGrafia

Where: various locations
When: Apr-May
Tel & website: information 06 7047 500/www.fotografiafestival.it
Rome's annual photography festival puts on a wide range of exhibitions in venues across the city, from historic museums to avant-garde backstreet galleries.

Primo Maggio

Where: Piazza San Giovanni
When: 1 May
On May Day, trade unions organise a huge, free rock concert, which is traditionally held in front of the basilica of San Giovanni in Laterano. Performers – mainly Italian, with a smattering of international has-beens – belt out crowd-pleasers from mid afternoon into the small hours.

Campionato Internazionale di Tennis (Italian Open)

Where: Foro Italico, viale dei Gladiatori 31
When: 2wks early May
Tel & website: 06 3283 7240/www.internazionalibnlditalia.it
Every May, Rome hosts the Italian Open tennis tournament, one of the most important European clay-court challenges outside the Grand Slam, and a warm-up event for the French Open.

Concorso Ippico Internazionale di Piazza di Siena

Where: Piazza di Siena, Villa Borghese
When: 2nd half of May
Tel & website: 06 638 3818/www.piazzadisiena.com
Rome's jet-set flock to this international show-jumping event in leafy Villa Borghese.

Summer

Jazz & Image Festival

Where: Villa Celimontana
When: early June-Aug
Tel & website: 06 5833 57817/www.villacelimontanajazz.com
This festival takes place in the leafy Villa Celimontana park and features acclaimed artists (from Incognito to Italian jazz star Stefano Bollani) in an astonishingly beautiful setting. Lots of candles and torches give the place a magical aura. Wine and food stands complete the idyll.

Estate Romana

Where: various locations
When: June-Sept
Website: www.estateromana.it
During the event-packed Estate Romana (Roman Summer) festival, piazze, palazzi, parks and courtyards come alive with music from local bands, films are shown on outdoor screens late into the night, and cultural events such as readings and gastronomic events take place in venues around town. Many events are free; check local press for details. The website may change its address; it can, however, be accessed through the town council website at www.comune.roma.it.

Cosmophonies – Festival Internazionale di Ostia Antica

Where: Teatro Romano-Scavi Archeologici di Ostia Antica, viale dei Romagnoli 717
When: June-mid Sept
Tel & website: 333 200 4329/www.cosmophonies.com
Held in the breathtaking scenario of the ancient Roman theatre of Ostia Antica, Cosmophonies is an international festival of theatre, dance and music dishing out acts like Sonic Youth, Morrissey, Caetano Veloso and Jackson Browne. No matter what's happening on stage, these unique surroundings make for a memorable night.

Festival delle Letterature

Where: Basilica of Maxentius, via dei Fori Imperiali
When: June
Tel & website: 06 3996 7850/www.festivaldelleletterature.it
The floodlit basilica of Maxentius in the Roman Forum provides a theatrical backdrop to readings by some of the most important names in contemporary literature; past guests have included Paul Auster, Hanif Kureishi and Zadie Smith.

Roma Incontra il Mondo

Where: Villa Ada, via di Ponte Salario, Suburbs: north
When: mid June-early Aug
Tel & website: 06 4173 4712/06 4173 4648/www.villaada.org
Musicians from around the world play on a lakeside stage beneath the venerable trees of the Villa Ada park. Lights reflected in the water and cool breezes make this one of the most atmospheric and relaxing of the summer festivals. If the music palls there are bars and stalls purveying ethnic food, music and books.

International Chamber Ensemble

Where: Sant'Ivo alla Sapienza, corso Rinascimento 40, Pantheon & Navona
When: mid June-mid Aug
Tel & website: 06 8680 0125/www.interensemble.org
Chamber and symphonic music, as well as opera, takes place in a splendid example of Renaissance architecture: the courtyard of Sant'Ivo alla Sapienza, the hallowed 15th-century seat of Rome university.

Fiesta

Where: via Appia Nuova 1245, Suburbs: east
When: mid June-mid Aug
Tel & website: 06 7129 9858/toll-free credit card bookings 199 109 910/www.fiesta.it
This hectic Latin American-themed festival regularly attracts almost a million people over the summer months with performances by Latin American bands, plus appearances by some international rock, pop and hip hop stars. There are four dancefloors, scores of restaurants and stalls... and lots of salsa and merengue. Come early: transport and parking can be a nightmare.

Gay Village

Where: venue changes from year to year
When: late June-early Sept 7pm-3am daily
Website: www.gayvillage.it
A ten-week open-air bonanza that makes summer the pinkest season of the year: bars, restaurants, live acts, discos, cinema – a great place for boys and girls alike. Venue and contact details change from year to year, but the website reveals all as the date approaches.

Festa di San Giovanni

Where: Piazza di San Giovanni in Laterano
When: 23 June
In the San Giovanni district, locals observe this saint's day by guzzling lumache in umido (stewed snails) and porchetta (roast suckling pig). The main religious highlight is a candlelit procession, usually led by the pope, to San Giovanni in Laterano.

Santi Pietro e Paolo

Where: San Paolo fuori le Mura
When: 29 June
The two founders of Catholicism are also the twin patron saints of Rome, and each is honoured in his own basilica. At St Peter's a solemn mass is the highlight; celebrations at San Paolo fuori le Mura are focused outside the church, with an all-night street fair on via Ostiense.

Concerti all'Orto Botanico

Where: Largo Cristina di Svezia 24, Trastevere
When: July
Tel & website: 06 686 8441/06 3936 6322/fax 06 3936 6229/www.assmusrom.it
Organised by the Associazione Musicale Romana, these concerts – which include Gershwin and Piazzola as well as mainstream chamber music – take place in the botanical gardens, where a natural amphitheatre makes for a lovely venue for a limited number of spectators. Booking essential.

Cineporto

Where: Parco della Farnesina, Suburbs: north
When: July & Aug
Tel & website: 06 3600 5556/www.cineporto.com
One of the most successful and popular summer film festivals is in the park by the Stadio Olimpico. There are two separate screens, each of them showing two dubbed films a night, often recent releases. Live concerts of mainly Italian bands are presented between shows on many nights.

Stagione Estiva del Teatro dell'Opera

Where: Terme di Caracalla
When: July-Aug
Tel & website: 06 4816 0255/www.operaroma.it
The spectacular venue for the Opera di Roma's summer season is a breathtaking archaeological site. Set designers usually exploit the unique backdrop of majestic Roman ruins with few props and dramatic lighting. Back-row seats are very far away from the stage – so don't forget binoculars.

AltaRomAltaModa

Where: venues vary
When: 5 days late Jan; 5 days mid July
Tel & website: information 06 678 1313/www.altaroma.it
Though often in the shade of glitzier, trendier Milan, Rome's fashion community is treated twice a year to a sneak preview of the coming season's collections by Roman designers, and an appearance by a handful of international talent.

Invito alla Danza

Where: Villa Pamphili
When: mid July
Tel & website: 06 5831 0086, 06 3973 8323/www.invitoalladanza.it
This annual dance fest is held in the beautiful gardens of the Villa Pamphili. The programme, with both classical and modern offerings, presents a performance every evening for about two weeks, and often includes international companies and stars.

New Operafestival di Roma

Where: Piazza San Clemente 1, Celio
When: mid July-mid Aug
Tel & website: 347 852 4241/www.newoperafestivaldiroma.com
This festival offers talented young musicians and singers from Italy and the US the chance to perform in the courtyard of the basilica of San Clemente. There's always at least one fully fledged opera, plus chamber music and a series of recitals.

Festa de Noantri

Where: Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere/piazza Mastai
When: mid-end July
Though few traces of Trastevere's working-class roots remain today, the area's residents celebrate its humble origins with gusto during the Festa de' Noantri. Festivities kick off with a procession held in honour of the Madonna del Carmine, to whom the whole shebang is theoretically dedicated. Two weeks of arts events and street performances follow, and fireworks round off the closing night.

Mille e Una Nota

Where: Santa Maria della Pace, Arco della Pace 5, Pantheon & Navona
When: Aug. Box office 1hr before concerts
Tel: 06 780 7695
This charming little chamber music festival has been going for over ten years in the magnificent cloister of Santa Maria della Pace.

Festa delle Catene

Where: San Pietro in Vincoli
When: 1 Aug
The chains that allegedly bound St Peter in prison in Jerusalem, and those with which he was shackled in Rome, are displayed in a special mass at the church of San Pietro in Vincoli.

Festa della Madonna della Neve

Where: Santa Maria Maggiore
When: 5 Aug
August 5 352 saw an unseasonal snowfall on the Esquiline Hill, an event which is still remembered at the basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore. The day is marked with a special mass, culminating in a blizzard of rose petals which flutter down from the roof on to the congregation.

Notte di San Lorenzo

Where: San Lorenzo in Panisperna, via Panisperna 90
When: 10 Aug
Tel: 06 483 667
On the night of 10 August, Roman eyes turn towards the heavens, hoping to catch a glimpse of one of the night's shooting stars. Some explain the phenomenon as the fall-out of a meteor entering orbit, while the more poetic attribute the falling stars to the tears shed by St Lawrence, martyred in Rome on this day in 258.

Ferragosto (Feast of the Assumption)

When: 15 Aug
Those who haven't scarpered to the coast for the whole of August take a long weekend for the Feast of the Assumption, and most of the city closes down.

Autumn

RomaEuropa Festival

Where: various locations
When: Sept-Nov
Tel & website: 06 422 961/www.romaeuropa.net
Rome's cutting-edge performing arts festival offers music, dance and theatre, with an eclectic mix of international acts and emerging young talent. Buy tickets at the venues themselves or by phone or online (www.helloticket.it); book well in advance for big-name acts.

Buenos Aires Tango

Where: Auditorium-Parco della Musica
When: mid-Sept
Tel & website: 06 8024 1281/www.auditorium.com
A world-class tango festival, Buenos Aires Tango, features fantastic tango dancers and performances as well as open classes and a milonga.

Enzimi

Where: various venues
When: generally 2wks mid-Sept
Website: www.enzimi.com
This free music, theatre and arts festival – a showcase for the best up-and-coming artists – is council-funded and aimed at thirtysomethings and younger. Held in an array of unlikely locations, it hosts cutting-edge local bands and some international stars, skilfully mixing mainstream acts with offbeat sounds – the perfect opportunity to see what's new in the city's artistic circles.

Cinema – Festa Internazionale di Roma

Where: various venues
When: Oct
Website: www.romacinemafest.org
Started in 2006, Rome finally got itself a film festival to match its iconic cinematic status, giving the city's once glorious film industy a much-needed shot in the arm. Organisational hitches should be ironed out as the festival gains in maturity. Linked to another feisty newcomer – New York's Tribeca Film Festival – this event has both arthouse kudos and the money to attract the stars and the big players.

Ognissanti/Giornata dei Defunti

Where: Cimitero del Verano, piazzale del Verano
When: 1, 2 Nov
Otherwise known as Tutti santi, All Saints' Day (Ognissanti) is followed by La commemorazioni dei defunti (or Tutti i morti), when the pope celebrates mass at Verano Cemetery. Romans travel en masse to visit family graves.

Winter

Immacolata Concezione

Where: Piazza di Spagna
When: 8 Dec
The statue of the Madonna in piazza di Spagna is the focus of the Feast of the Immaculate Conception. With the pope looking on, the fire brigade runs a ladder up Mary's column and a lucky fireman gets to place a wreath over her outstretched arm. At the base of the column locals deposit elaborate floral tributes.

Natale & Santo Stefano (Christmas & Boxing Day)

When: 25, 26 Dec
Tickets for the papal midnight mass at St Peter's can be obtained from the Prefettura; put your request in months ahead. Cribs can be found in most churches, but the most impressive are halfway up the Spanish Steps and in piazza San Pietro. The Roman Christmas Day is a gluttonous affair: locals feast upon fritti (calorific fried offerings), followed by panettone (currant sponge) and torrone (slabs of nutty chocolate or nougat). The pope says a special mass and gives his 'Urbi et orbis' blessing in St Peter's.

San Silvestro & Capodanno (New Year's Eve & New Year's Day)

When: 31 Dec, 1 Jan
Hordes of Romans flock to piazza del Popolo to see in the new year with a free concert and fireworks display; check the city council website (www.comune.roma.it) for a full list of events. Some people add to the fun with home-grown pyrotechnics and flying spumante corks, turning the centro storico into something resembling a war zone. Beware: some older residents still honour the tradition of chucking unwanted consumer durables off their balconies.

Epifania – La Befana (Epiphany)

Where: Piazza Navona
When: 6 Jan
From mid December up to 6 January, piazza Navona hosts a Christmas fair, with market stalls peddling sweets and cheap tat. The fair is dedicated to La Befana – the old witch. As the pagan legend goes, on the day of Epiphany this 'Mother Christmas' brought presents to good children only; naughty ones found their shoes filled with coal. The climax of the fair comes late on 5 January, when La Befana herself touches down in the piazza.

Festa di Sant'Antonio Abate

Where: Sant'Eusebio, piazza Vittorio Emanuele II 12A
When: 17 Jan
In a rare example of Italian devotion to animal welfare, Romans commemorate the protector of animals, Sant'Antonio Abate, in the church of Sant'Eusebio on 17 January; those keen to ensure their pets get a place in heaven bring them along to have them blessed.

Carnevale

When: wk before Ash Wednesday (Feb/early Mar)
In the Middle Ages this riotous last fling before the rigours of Lent was celebrated with wild abandon on Monte Testaccio. Renaissance popes, anxious to keep an eye on their debauched subjects, brought the ceremony to via del Corso. Nowadays young Roman tykes dressed up in their finery are paraded about by their proud parents.

Public holidays

On public holidays (giorni festivi) virtually all shops, banks and businesses close, although (with the exception of May Day, 15 August and Christmas Day) bars and restaurants tend to stay open. There's only limited public transport on 1 May and Christmas afternoon.

New Year's Day (Capodanno) 1 Jan
Epiphany (La Befana) 6 Jan
Easter Monday (Pasquetta)
Liberation Day 25 Apr
May Day 1 May
Patron Saints' Day (Santi Pietro e Paolo) 29 June
Feast of the Assumption (Ferragosto) 15 Aug
All Saints (Tutti i santi) 1 Nov
Immaculate Conception (Festa dell'Immacolata) 8 Dec
Christmas Day (Natale) 25 Dec
Boxing Day (Santo Stefano) 26 Dec

Our listings

While every effort and care has been made to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this guide, the publisher cannot accept responsibility for any errors it may contain. Before you go out of your way, we strongly advise you to phone ahead and check the particulars.

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