Don Alfonso (in Sant'Agata dei due Golfi, on the Amalfi Coast), with its two Michelin stars, is one of Italy's great gourmet stopovers, and this is its Roman, er, baby - born in spring 2004 (but already with one star of its own). The location - in the plush five-star Aldrovandi Palace Hotel, on the north side of the Borghese gardens - is a little remote, but the restaurant has cast off the rather fusty feel of the hotel in favour of a contemporary Zen/ethnic design scheme. It helps, too, that Baby looks on to the verdant garden and swimming pool - a lovely, privileged spot for summer bathing (in 2006, day passes cost a cool €40, €60 at weekends). The menu combines Don Alfonso classics such as sartù di riso (Neapolitan baked rice) served on a light tomato ragù with less weighty versions of Roman standards: particularly amusant is the classic chicken with red peppers - except that the red peppers have morphed into peperone ice-cream. Desserts are as spectacular as one would expect of Don Alfonso (we especially liked the pastiera soufflé with tangy granita di limone). Sure, of an evening, there is the added cost of a taxi ride there and back - but Baby is still an awful lot closer than the Amalfi Coast. And you can always do it the slow way - on the tram.