Gino in vicolo Rosini

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In a hard-to-find lane around the back of the parliament building, off piazza del Parlamento, this rustic neighbourhood osteria with its Arcadian murals is always filled to bursting with MPs, and accompanying political hacks and hangers-on. The cuisine champions the lighter side of the local tradition, in dishes like tonnarelli alla ciociara (with mushrooms and tomatoes), pasta and chickpeas in skate sauce, coniglio al vino bianco (rabbit in white wine) and zucchine ripiene (stuffed courgettes). Desserts include home-made crostate (jam tarts) and an excellent tiramisù. Come early, or be prepared to wait for one of the hotly contested tables.