This formerly basic trattoria in the heart of trendy Testaccio used to be best known for being almost impossible to get into - Felice, the owner, liked to keep reserved signs on all the tables, and only let in regulars and the few others he liked the look of. But Felice has retired (though he still pops in occasionally) and the place has had a makeover, turning it into a stylishly moderne neo-osteria. Thankfully, though, the quality of the cooking has not changed. If anything it's got better, with a few lighter and more creative dishes alongside the Roman classics - tonnarelli cacio e pepe, abbacchio al forno con patate - which first made the name of this long-running Testaccio institution. The desserts are excellent - especially the tiramisù al bicchiere (served in a glass), and the wine list has expanded a little since the days when it was cloudy Castelli romani in a flask or nothing.