When this place opened in 1842 it was the favourite haunt of the Scandinavian painters who lived on nearby via Margutta. A tasteful revamp has retained most of the original...
Via della Croce 76BNaturally, San Lorenzo, the university quarter, has its own book bar - Bar à Book - where weighty tomes mingle with quiches, puddings and rather good wines.
Via dei Piceni 23Rome's Antico Caffè della Pace (which is known to all and sundry as Bar della Pace) is eternally à la mode. In cooler months the antiques and flower-filled rooms emit a sense...
Via della Pace 3-7If you've slogged up here to visit Villa Pamphili or the site of Garibaldi's doomed battle with the French on the Gianicolo, rest your weary bones on the wooden benches of this...
Piazzale Aurelio 5Green tourists get their coffee or beer on piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere; locals who know better go to this bar. Its harsh lighting would make Sophia Loren look wan, and the...
Piazza San CalistoSculptor Antonio Canova signed a contract in 1818 to ensure that this property, in the heart of the old artists' quarter, would remain an atelier for sculpture. The master's...
Via del Babuino 150ATraditionally, Canova's clientele was right-wing and at daggers drawn with the left-wing rabble at Rosati across the square, though there has been little evidence of this...
Piazza del Popolo 16It's easy to forget you're in Rome in this ultra-modern venue. The name (crudo means raw) conveys perfectly the sheer freshness of the place's style and ingredients. The...
Via degli Specchi 6Unlikely ex-garage surroundings - the name means 'brakes and clutches' - for Rome's hippest early evening spot, frequented by arty types and a creative, studenty crowd. A grand...
Via del Politeama 4-6This lively, modern bar is a popular place where habitués meet for everything from a morning cornetto and cappuccino to after-dinner cocktails. The chrome detailing, brightly...
Piazza Trilussa 34This bar is famous for its tartufo - a calorie-bomb chocolate ice-cream concoction with huge lumps of chocolate inside. There are tables outside at which to enjoy food from a...
Piazza Navona 28-32In the basement of an enoteca on Testaccio's market square, this 'Oasis of Beer' has over 500 brews on offer. It's one of the few places in Rome where you can track down the...
Piazza Testaccio 41This is an attempt at a New York-style bar, with steel and wood decor. It pays lip service to the 'news' theme with racks of papers and a non-stop satellite news screen. But...
Via della Stamperia 72Rosati is the traditional haunt of Rome's intellectual left: Calvino, Moravia and Pasolini were regulars. The art nouveau interior has remained unchanged since its opening in...
Piazza del Popolo 5This newish spot on lovely piazza di Pietra is open morning till late. The bar's Roman/Swedish/New York pedigree is seen in little touches throughout. Incredibly comfortable...
Piazza di Pietra 42