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Forno del Ghetto

Critics' choice
Shops

Run by three dour ladies, this tiny shop has no sign but is immediately recognisable by the line of slavering regulars outside. Among other goodies, they...

Via Portico d'Ottavia 1

Moriondo & Gariglio

Critics' choice
Shops

This fairytale chocolate shop with beautiful gift-boxes is especially lovely at Christmas, when you'll have to fight to get your hands on the excellent...

Via del Piè di Marmo 21

Volpetti

Critics' choice
Shops

One of the best delis in Rome, with exceptional cheese, hams and salamis. It's hard to get away without one of the jolly assistants loading you up with...

Via Marmorata 47