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Osteria dell'Arco

Restaurants & cafés

The lively residential neighbourhood around piazza Alessandria, just outside Porta Pia, is on the up and up: there's the MACRO art gallery, due for...

Via G Pagliari 11

Palatium

Restaurants & cafés

Though it's backed by the regional government, this new wine bar and restaurant deep in the fashion district is more than just a PR exercise. Dedicated to...

Via Frattina 94

Paninoteca da Guido

Budget
Restaurants & cafés

This hole-in-the-wall in pedestrianised Borgo Pio is one of the best places to grab a quick daytime snack in the Vatican area. Guido does filled rolls, made...

Borgo Pio 13

Paris

Restaurants & cafés

Don't be fooled by the name: this upmarket restaurant is militantly Roman. It's one of the few places where you can still sample minestra di arzilla ai...

Piazza San Calisto 7A

Piccolo Alpino

Budget
Restaurants & cafés

This ultra-cheap, no-frills trattoria-pizzeria in a residential Testaccio sidestreet is about as far as you can get from the tourist herd. There's a telly...

Via Orazio Antinori 5

Pizza Ciro

Budget
Restaurants & cafés

From outside it looks like a small, vaguely touristy pizza parlour. But Ciro is in fact a huge eating factory with 150 places, many of them in a large back...

Via della Mercede 43

Pizzarium

Budget
Restaurants & cafés

Feel a dough craving coming on after staring at all those muscular Sybils on the Sistine ceiling? Then head for this gourmet carry-out pizza joint, which...

Via della Meloria 43

Remo

Budget
Restaurants & cafés

The best place in town for authentic pizza romana, Remo is a Testaccio institution, with a prime location on the district's main piazza. You can sit at...

Piazza Santa Maria Liberatrice 44

Roscioli

Restaurants & cafés

Although quite a few Roman wine shops are in the habit of laying out tables for lunch and (sometimes) dinner, Roscioli is the first of the city's butchers...

Via dei Giubbonari 21-23

Settembrini

Restaurants & cafés

One of the most interesting new kids on the Roman block, Settembrini mixes design and tradition, both in its warmly minimalist decor and in its menu. In...

Via Luigi Settembrini 25

Sisini

Budget
Restaurants & cafés

Probably Trastevere's best pizza rustica (takeaway pizza) outfit. The flavours are fairly conservative, but there's a wide range and they're all delicious....

Via San Francesco a Ripa 137

Sora Margherita

Critics' choice
Restaurants & cafés

This spit-and-sawdust, hole-in-the-wall trat offers one of Rome's great local dining experiences. There may or may not be a sign with the restaurant's name...

Piazza delle Cinque Scole 30

TAD

Restaurants & cafés, Shops

The concept behind this 'concept store' is that you can shop for clothes, shoes, flowers, household accessories, CDs, mags and perfumes, get your hair done,...

Via del Babuino 155A

Tallusa

Restaurants & cafés

Always packed, this tiny eat-in or takeaway joint specialises in southern and eastern Mediterranean cuisine - ranging from Sicilian specialities to falafel...

Via Beniamino Franklin 11

Tram Tram

Restaurants & cafés

Taking its name from its proximity to the tram tracks, this good-value nuova trattoria in San Lorenzo attracts a young crowd, who are not fazed by the...

Via dei Reti 44-46