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Restaurants & cafés

On busy nights (and most nights are busy here), this heaving neighbourhood trat is the loudest and most crowded 40 square metres in Rome. Not the place for...

Via Celimontana 1


Restaurants & cafés

With its painted wooden wainscotting and industrial-style iron lights, this feels like a cross between a cricket pavilion and a real downhome workers'...

Piazza delle Coppelle 44


Restaurants & cafés

From the outside, this San Lorenzo eaterie looks like one of those spit-and-sawdust places that Romans refer to as un buco - a hole in the wall. There's no...

Via dei Campani 12


Restaurants & cafés

A good example of how to upgrade the Roman family trattoria without betraying its roots. Spread over three cosy rooms, this is a friendly, bustling place...

Via del Leone 3-4



The family-run Nerva may be right next door to the famous Forum but there's not a view to be had of it: the hotel faces a wall (though not just any wall: it...

Via Tor de' Conti 3

Osteria dell'Angelo

Restaurants & cafés

Five minutes' walk north of the Vatican, Angelo Croce's neighbourhood trattoria is a real one-off, just like the man himself. The decor consists of photos,...

Via G Bettolo 32

Residenza A


On the first floor of an imposing palazzo, Residenza A is a 'boutique art hotel' with splashy modern works enlivening its slate-grey and black colour...

Via Veneto 183

Residenza Arco de' Tolomei

Critics' choice

This bijou residenza, created by Marco and Gianna Paola Fe' d'Ostiani in their own home, has a cosy, welcoming feel, with beautiful wood flooring and...

Via dell'Arco de' Tolomei 26C

Residenza Cellini


This delightfully luminous residenza has huge rooms with faux-antique wooden furniture, parquet flooring and comfy beds. The marble bathrooms have jacuzzis...

Via Modena 5



It may not be in the thick of things - it's in a quiet residential area - but the Sant'Anselmo, lavishly restored in 2005, is dazzling. Themes can be dodgy...

Piazza Sant'Anselmo 2

Sora Margherita

Critics' choice
Restaurants & cafés

This spit-and-sawdust, hole-in-the-wall trat offers one of Rome's great local dining experiences. There may or may not be a sign with the restaurant's name...

Piazza delle Cinque Scole 30


Critics' choice
Restaurants & cafés

Behind an anonymous frosted-glass door, this friendly, artsy trattoria is Testaccio's best-value dining experience. In colourful romanesco or even more...

Via Luca della Robbia 3A


Restaurants & cafés

This new-but-old wine and salad bar offers a range of creative salads (€7.50 standard, €9 mega) such as radicchio, pine nuts, sultanas and parmesan. There...

Vicolo della Torretta 60

Villa San Pio & Aventino


Two of the hotels in the Aventino group are within a stone's throw of each other in a tranquil, leafy neighbourhood (the Sant'Anselmo is the third). Villa...

Via di Santa Melania 19 & via di San Domenico 10

Vineria il Chianti

Restaurants & cafés

In the middle of the Trevi Fountain souvenir belt, this rustic, wood-lined wine bar offers welcome relief from all of the surrounding tack. As the name...

Via del Lavatore 81-82