Essentially, California's version of an English B&B, and how you just reacted to that sentence will be pretty much how you react to the inn itself. Some will find its lodgings quaint and delightful, while others will take one look, throw both hands in the air, holler 'Chintz!' and run screaming from the premises. Either way, the early-evening wine receptions and the breakfast buffet with freshly baked bread are a nice touch (as are fireplaces in all the rooms) and the staff are charmers. Next door, the Petite Auberge (www.petiteaubergesf.com) is a cheaper, country-French version of the Swan, with many of the same amenities; both are Joie de Vivre properties.