Crowded, frantically busy and bustling,eating at this much-loved hawker food centreis a little like pushing a diabetic into a candystore – it’s entirely possible to go into sensoryoverload. Rule of thumb: take your cue from the queue. For great pan-fried radish cakes, make abeeline for Jin Ji Mei Shi (stall 96); China StreetFritters (stall 64) has crisply fragrant ngohhiang; while the congee at Zhen Zhen (stall 54) is wonderful.