We can do little except applaud the Crystal Jade group for consistently delivering high-quality Chinese comfort food. The daily dim sum selection is always reliable, including fluffy, crisp yam puffs and delicately wrought har gao. The beef brisket noodles recall the best of Hong Kong’s cafés. Congees are a house specialty – huge bowls of snowy rice soups paired with everything from creamy century eggs to livers and kidneys. The roast meats – including crackling skinned suckling pigs and thick, lightly salted, fatty tiles of roast pork – are perfect accompaniments.