Everything about Ka Soh – Cantonese for mother-in-law – shrieks 1950s. But the daily crowds don’t come to this Chinatown eatery for the décor. The bustling, motherly staff dish out stern love and terrifically homey Canto-classics in equal measure. Bestsellers include deep-fried chicken marinated in prawn paste, deep-fried cubes of salted tofu and a milky, fish-head beehoon noodle soup.