The decor (complete with wooden stools and mood lighting) is a little kitsch, prompting flashbacks to ‘Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon’, but the menu is faultless. The roast Peking duck is a standout, the skin crisp and the doughy wraps just-so. It’s also hard to pass up the onion-flecked pancakes, fried noodles and luminous cubes of tofu braised in a black bean sauce and finely minced pork.