The menu here is tiny, but the small number of choices means that the dishes come out quickly – always a boon when you’re rushing to a show. It’s essentially hawker fare, but the odd names take a while to work out. ‘It’s about to get hotter’ turns out to be laksa. ‘Absolutely decadently yours’ is a well-executed chai tau gwai (fried radish cake) loaded with fat prawns, scallops and tender crabmeat. But our money is on the Wagyu hor fun – dark, thick smoky noodles and thin slices of fragrantly sautéed beef. In the evenings, bookings are not taken, so come by 6.30pm.