The all-white interiors – swanky Corian tables and leather finishes – remind us a little of a sci-fi set, but chef Li Ngai Man lets the cooking make the loudest statement. The menu gathers bestselling items and classics from the other Tung Lok restaurants, so it’s a convenient shorthand for all your favourites. The soups are ambrosial and intensely flavoured with poultry, medicinal ginseng or seafood (yes, there’s shark’s fin and fish maw). Pork ribs, sprinkled with sesame seeds, are braised till fork-tender, though the star attraction must be the handmade noodles fragrantly stir-fried with tiny shreds of duck meat and crunchy bean sprouts.