Established in 1940, this Hainanese stalwart is Singapore’s answer to New York’s Soup Nazi. The elderly gentleman who we think is the owner stands at the counter, watches the room with an eagle eye and barks orders at the matronly staff while running the accounts on an abacus. Choping tables is verboten: apparently he’s been known to kick people out. Several waitresses whispered to us, out of the corner of their mouths, not to wait for our dinner partners, and hurry up and order. As a result, everyone inhales the chicken rice and steam boat. Yes, you’ve had better elsewhere, but there’s nothing like a delicious state of tension to stir the appetite.