Gunther’s dining room – white table linen, charcoal-grey walls and leather chairs with uncomfortably low armrests – is suitably gloomy, hinting at expense accounts, clandestine affairs and anniversary meals. The kitchen’s nouvelle leanings are especially evident when a creamy chunk of foie gras is encrusted with crushed toasted almonds and paired with stewed sweet cherries. Veal cheeks are braised in a dark mahogany-hued sauce till fork-tender, the richness of the meat an earthy foil for the smooth mash and baby peas sautéed with bacon bits. Desserts are crafted with the same attention to detail as mains: the sabayon, for instance, is a golden, liquid cloud of egg yolk, sugar and alcohol, pierced with macerated strawberries.

Read our full review of Gunther's here.