This place incorporates four different menus – Sri Lankan, north Indian, Indian-Chinese and Punjabi. The latter is a fragrant and spicy tour of the subcontinental interiors. Purists will be thrilled to learn the kitchen uses no milk, ghee or lard, nor does it serve beef or pork. There’s plenty to savour including crunchy fritters of onion and chick-pea flour, and fenu greek-scented Koliwada prawns. The lady’s fingers with caramelised onions are a wonder, as are the skewers of seer fish, all golden with turmeric. Mop up the tongue-searing lamb and spinach with some naan stuffed with cottage cheese. Best seats in the house are on the balcony.

Main courses $16-$32 (minimum $30 p.p.).