Regional Italian cooking in stylish surroundings

I’ve never been a big fan of the Dempsey Road area. Taxi drivers don’t know anywhere other than Samy’s Curry House and I can’t help but feel like I’ve been dropped off at a huge garden centre. But there’s no denying the increasing popularity of this former military estate as home to a number of trendy bars and eateries. Fabbrica, on the road above Samy’s and next to the Korean Barbecue, is the latest to join the swelling ranks, purveying regional Italian cuisine.

The Italian word fabbrica means ‘factory’ in English, a hint at the building’s original use but by no means indicative of the current design. There’s certainly nothing uniform or factory line about this place. Traditional exposed beams stretch across a soaring ceiling. Below, an eclectic mix of murals, contemporary art, stand-alone lamps and modern seating work together to create a stylish setting in which to enjoy a meal.

Unfortunately, the interior design had slightly more taste than the food. A starter of crabmeat, apple and sundriedtomato salad was adequate but the citrus dressing didn’t provide the necessary zesty twist, and the flavour of cheese overwhelmed the slivers of meat on a huge plate of beef carpaccio and arugula
with shaved parmesan.

Our mains followed a similar line. Nothing to really complain about but nothing to rave about either. Slightly dry prosciutto-wrapped swordfi sh could have done with a more generous helping
of the accompanying juicy mango salsa, while the sautéed cherry tomatoes, olives, capers and mint beneath the seared tuna fi llet didn’t offer the fine-tuned combination of fl avours that usually leaves me
licking my plate in Italy.

Fortunately, dessert did – and I would consider returning just to have another slice of Fabbrica’s dark chocolate gorgonzola lava cake. ‘You must try it,’ explained our very attentive waitress, ‘and don’t worry,
you can’t taste the cheese.’ What you can taste is the perfect contrast between the rich, souffl é-style case and oozing liquid chocolate of the cake and the ball of chilled vanilla ice cream. And what about the gorgonzola? This is mixed in with the chocolate, adding a slight creaminess and extra depth to the delicious end result. Definitely worth the taxi ride.

Average main course $28.