Goto Hisao, the former chef to the Japanese ambassador to Singapore, has opened a kaiseki-only restaurant in the space formerly occupied by Wacha. And what a feast he serves up. The line-up depends on what’s fresh at the market. On a recent visit, the basement kitchen sent up astoundingly fresh sashimi; an intriguing clear stew of yam paste, eel and gingko nuts; tempura-ed sweet potato; gently braised octopus and sesame seed tofu; and a trio of desserts that included a sublime crème brûlée made of pumpkin purée. The dinner sets are very pricey, but expect premium ingredients like crab and Wagyu beef. Reservations should be made three days in advance and special dietary requests should be made at least one week ahead.

Lunch set $68 (six courses); dinner set $180 (nine courses) or $280 (ten courses).