Kado Man is tucked away in an inconspicuous corner of a hotel shopping arcade, but that’s not stopping people from sniffing their way to it. The house speciality is ramen, with pale al dente noodles. There are several options, but we rather liked the soy paste version – salty and grainy in a soup flavoured with wine and onion crescents – that came topped with thin roast pork slices. Also excellent are the log of grilled unagi on perfectly cooked rice, and saba (mackerel) braised in a thick sauce of wine and miso.