The small dining room – when you finally find it in the rabbit warren of Cuppage Plaza – is claustrophobic, the seats aren’t very comfortable and bodies are squashed together, but on most nights, you can’t get a spare table for love or money. The draw here is yakitori – deliciously fresh ingredients barbecued on bamboo spears. Try the lightly salted foie gras, chicken meat balls blended with chunks of black mushrooms, moist chicken wings dipped in salt and marbled Wagyu beef. Reservations are essential on the weekend.