Marutama’s specialty is the thin Japanese noodle – ramen – in one of four soup bases (chicken, spicy chicken, prawn or nuts). The soups are mildly flavoured and almost caramelin tone, an ideal template for the wheaty flavour of the ramen. Be sure to order side dishes, like Kakuni (thick glistening wedges of pork belly stewed in a mellow soy sauce) and dashimaki tamago (a thick roll of omelette, seared briefly on the pan and collapsing on the tongue like a puff of golden air).