The regular lunch crowd here is dotted with Japanese business suits, so that’s already a reassuring sign that all is well even as you settle down at the narrow chef’s table. The sushi is truly outstanding with fat tuna belly, sweet prawns and firm salmon. If you’re feeling particularly indulgent, the slightly spicy rolls of lurid orange mentaiko (pollock roe) are nutty and delicious. Needless to say, it’s not a cheap joint, but the lunchtime bento boxes featuring a rainbow of sashimi set the bar.

Bento boxes $30-$60.