The platinum blond and ever-smiling Belgium chef Emmanuel Stroobant is the closest thing Singapore has to a celebrity chef. The restaurant made its name with an astonishing foie gras menu, but these days its aggressively French tastes are tempered with Asian inflections, such as lobster with yuzu-green tarts, scallops and seaweed oil, wild kiniko mushroom soup, and a sailboat of filo and wasabi-scented wild barramundi served with grilled aubergines and pine nuts.